Buy now, vintage lovers.

We love vintage and we love American-made. Who knew we'd meet someone that is also totally in love with both? We met Lisa Rowan, owner of Beltway Vintage, back in November when she invited us to her space at Analog in Brookland. She recently released her Spring 2014 Lookbook, which was shot in the gorgeous Building 170, a circa 1919 electrical substation that's part of the Washington Navy Yard Annex Historic District. Last weekend while browsing Thread at Union Market we had a chance to ask her more about vintage, style and how to find the perfect romper. Here's our conversation:

How have you seen the vintage shopping landscape change in the past five years?

The local vintage scene has both gotten larger and smaller. We've seen vintage style grow in popularity, but several big-name vintage retailers close their doors. People are more willing to search for the perfect vintage piece. And, with the economy looking a bit better, I think people are more willing to make an investment in a beautiful piece that still has a decade or two of life left.

What's the most common size in the pieces you find?

Tiny. It's getting harder and harder to find items from the 50s and 60s that are larger than a modern size 4. It's the same with shoes- we don't carry too many because there are only so many size 5 or 6 women in the area. I always tell customers that they'll never see a size 8 shoe in my vintage shop unless it's on my own feet. I hoard vintage shoes that I can wear myself.

Do you remember the first piece you bought at either a thrift or vintage store? If so, what was it? Why did you buy it?

I actually bought my senior prom dress on eBay. It was an Oleg Cassini gown, which I had sought out because I had a thing for Jackie O and I knew he was one of her favorite designers. I also wore an old pillbox hat from a Woodward & Lothrop (also an eBay score, before I knew how significant Woody's was in DC history), which in retrospect I could have skipped.

What do you think is the future of vintage clothing?

I worry about it, honestly. Pieces from middle-to-late 20th century were made so well. And a great majority of garments today are not made to last multiple seasons, let alone decades. True vintage pieces are going to quickly become scarce—and so the prices are going to go up. Buy now, vintage lovers.

What designers do you admire--contemporary or historical?

Well, I still love Oleg Cassini. I love Christian Siriano and have been following his collections very closely over the years. Nanette Lepore is a favorite. As for the past, I'm always going to love Christian Dior for giving us the New Look.

How does one find the perfect romper?

Start with the crotch, because that's going to make or break it (and you). Put it up to your waist and really, just grab the crotch seam and pull it to see where it's going to hit. I'm still searching for a flattering romper that I can wear beyond the beach.

What most inspires you most in a piece of clothing?

I'd love to say color or pattern, but most often it comes down to how it's cut. I look at Robin Wright's costumes in House of Cards as a good example of this at work. Every piece she wears fits perfectly. Every dart and seam is in the right place. None of the pieces are very complicated or busy, but every one of them exudes control. The cut and fit of a garment that helps a story fall into place.

What's your favorite found treasure?

One of my favorites came from my family's own collection. My grandmother once owned a square scarf that had illustrations of different foods and their calorie counts. I haven't figured out the best way to display it yet, but I think it deserves to be up on the wall in my kitchen instead of in a box in the closet.

Where's your favorite place to find a new outfit?

I actually can't remember the last place I got a "new" outfit. Even a dress I splurged on this spring was a piece I found in a consignment store. So, I guess I would say that upscale consignment stores are my favorite.

How do you put together an outfit? What piece do you start with first?

At least six days out of the week, I start with jeans. If the jeans fit, I can dress them up or down without an issue.

How do you balance live/work/pleasure? Do you sleep?

Oh, I sleep. I'm the napping champion of the Mid-Atlantic. But I'm still figuring out how to balance work and everything else. In retail, you get used to working any and every day of the week. But I look for gaps in my calendar where I can fit in a bit of fun, whether it be shopping with a friend, a coffee date, or a matinee at the movies.

Beltway Vintage owner Lisa Rowan is the shop’s lead buyer. She’s been selling vintage for five years as a consigner, reseller, and shopgirl. She’s finishing her Master’s in Liberal Studies at Georgetown University, where she focused on American Studies. Lisa realized her path in fashion and its history when she discovered that her great-great grandfather immigrated to New England from Belgium to open a woolen mill in the late 19th century. Her graduate thesis examines the fall of the American garment-making industry, and the factors that would make a modest renaissance feasible. She loves reading about the business of fashion. You may recognize her as the DC Goodwill Fashionista for Goodwill of Greater Washington.   Visit her shop at Analog in Brookland, follow her on Twitter @BeltwayVintage + @Lisatella and like her page on Facebook!

What about you?

Where do you shop for vintage clothes? Do you think clothes were better made 40 years ago? Have you found the perfect romper?

Glimpse: an experiment in stumbling upon someone you might like

True Story

My friend Oscar wrote a post last week about a dating app called Glimpse that came out earlier this year. I was, of course, intrigued but sure I wouldn't participate. Yes, it's a great idea, but I like my instagram account lurker-free. Plus, I already have an 'instacrush'. And, the whole idea of a crush is that nothing ever happens. It's just forever in existence. No harm, no foul. No possibility of heartbreak.

People already meet on instagram. People meet everywhere. I don't like the idea of building up some idea of someone via words or photos through any kind of online dating.

Anyway, I tweeted something along these lines to Oscar and Glimpse, and Elan, Glimpse creator, tweeted back. I shared my concerns, and he convinced me to try it anyway.

To show you just how easy (or hard, depending on if you over-think things like me or not) it is, co-founder Elan and I shared our nine photos--and our first impressions--from our Glimpse profiles.

Elan's Profile, My comments:

Profile pic

What are you looking at? Nice that I can actually see your face. Wonder if this is your standard pensive face, a soon-to-be smile or an angry look.

Photo #1

Nice colors. Likes to have fun. Or be around people that look like they might be having fun. Or has a thing for balloons. Maybe those aren’t balloons. Maybe I have a thing for balloons.

Photo #2

May be more tolerant to cold weather than I am because this is the kind of weather that prevents me from taking photos because my hands get too cold. Or, you have gloves that let you use your touchphone.

Photo #3

I googled this. It’s $12.30 on amazon. I should just buy this for you so you no longer want it. I’m just confused by this photo.

Photo #4

Are you screenprinting t-shirts? Is this a card? Are you going to a birthday party? I don’t think I’ve ever dated someone that has said ‘word’. I guess there’s a first for everything.

Photo #5

You have friends! Your friends are also active on social networks! You have a nice smile! You had ‘not a bad’ night!

Photo #6

I wish the crawfish was in focus. Instagram threw you a birthday party ;).

Photo #7

Love this photo. Wonder if you emailed it to yourself or just saved it on your phone to someday repost. Also wonder who took the photo.

Photo #8

How often do you go to Burning Man? This is an important question.

Photo #9

I don’t know what this is but I want to play.

The takeaway: You may like seafood, may or may not be a night owl, probably enjoy being around people and generally having fun and are interested in tech with a creative bent.

Photos tell me enough about your personality to know that I would at least have something to chat about. Though, I have no idea if you are employed, if you know what you want in life, if you are or aren't interested in a long term relationship, though you seem totally willing to try new things. Unfortunately, you live in New York and unless you messages me I probably will never meet you.

My Profile, Elan's comments:

Profile pic

Girl’s got style

Photo 1

You commute to work? Ha, not sure what to make of this one.

Photo 2

I had to Google this place. Does this mean you speak german? Berlin related maybe?

Photo 3

Awesome shot.

Photo 4

You’re into the outdoors. Nice aesthetic.

Photo 5

Beach kinda gal.

Photo 6

You’re into going place. Now 2 transportation pics!

Photo 7

Road trips. Awesome.

Photo 8

An adventure in Rio. I’ve always wanted to visit.

Photo 9

Where is this?

The takeaway: You’re into going places, transportation geek, a cool photographer, nice aesthetic.

Your photos are intriguing and I'd want to chat, and that's the ultimate goal: To get the conversation started. At the same time, I don't think they tell a full story (not that you really can with just nine photos...the purpose of glimpse is well...just a first impression). If I were you, I'd replace of a couple of the "cool shots" with photos that highlight interesting experiences to shed more insight into who you are.

How to use Glimpse

This was a super fun experiment to see just how to use Glimpse. Both Elan and I had no prior knowledge of each other, so it's a good example of how your photos can tease and ensure you'll get some matches, and hopefully messages.

It's very easy to sign up. Just download the app on itunes, put in the invite code (you have to sign up and wait for an invite code, unless you're reading this in which case here's your invite code: "instacrush"!) and upload a profile photo and nine instagram photos that you think tell the story of who you are. The whole point is to make it simple--no more words, just pictures. Note: your captions from your instagram photos do show up, so choose wisely.

This was super hard for me. Should I evoke wanderlust or put-together-ness? Do I show my soul side or my minimal techno side? More of the art fart or the academic? I had all the same problems I normally have when trying to boil myself down to one profile. I just couldn't do it, until I did and then just left it alone. Then came the fun part.

You swipe through profiles just like in Tinder, but you get to see nine photos from the other person's instagram. If you think Tinder is addicting, Glimpse is like Tinder on crack. It's awesome. And, maybe because it's still new or maybe because they are being selective with invites, more than half of the people are attractive, take excellent photos, and seem to be interesting in one way or another. This is much, much different from the Tinder demographic, in which most people are scary, lame, or obnoxious, with the rare attractive+sane person being clingy, rude or not interested in actually dating.

I have no idea what these Glimpse (male) users are looking for, but the way they 'look at the world' is inspiring. So, there's that.

Pro tip / What I learned

Pick photos that tell the story of who you are. Ask your friends for help (I didn't). Then message people because the whole point is to spark conversation.

What about you?

What do you think of Glimpse? Would you try it? Do you also have difficulty describing yourself in pictures or words?

Behind the Scenes: Leather talk with Craig Storek of Western Storex

There is nothing like the smell of real leather. In designing the San Francisco wallet I sought out the experts as I wanted to create a product that will stand the test of time. I was lucky to find Western Storex--not only did Craig help advise me on the type of leather, but all in all the parts of the wallet to make sure it was the right construction, hardware, and weight.

Every time I visit Western Storex, Craig is super generous with his time and will answer any and all questions I have--no matter how random. It's obvious he knows his craft. I caught up with him to find out more about the history of Western Storex, and I am so amazed at the longevity of leather craftwork in his family. Talk about history!

Here's my interview with Craig Storek, owner of Western Storex:

1909 is a long time ago, how did Western Storex begin? Who started it?

Wencil C. Storek founded the company known as Western Manufacturing in 1909 and later incorporated it in 1948. Wencil C. Storek Jr., his eldest son was an integral part of the company, ultimately running the office while Wencil Jr’s younger brother Fred ran the factory.

Wencil Sr. was born in Czechoslovakia and came to the U.S. as a very young boy. His family settled in the Chicago area. Wencil Sr. had family that had come to San Francisco well before the 19^th century and were doing saddlery work.

As a young boy, Wencil Sr. set out from Chicago in the 1890’s to find his family connections in San Francisco and begin his life long craft. Off by himself, he traveled west by train and ended up in Seattle, Washington. From there he took a ferry down the coast (remember the Golden Gate Bridge would not be built for about 40 years) to arrive in San Francisco. He arrived at the ferry building and disembarked from the ferry in a strange and wild, pre-1906 earthquake town. Feeling a bit lost and scarred he approached a huge Irish Cop who took him under his wing and made sure he made it safely to his destination.

As a young boy he began his apprenticeship in the leather trade and eventually in 1909 formed his own company which was to become quite a part of the booming San Francisco economy.

Storex Craft Supply (selling leather, tools and supplies to individuals, industry, schools and others) was formed in the late 30’s and early 40’s just in time for all the returning service personnel that flooded back to a post WWII peacetime economy.

Much later, the name Western/Storex was used as a DBA by Craig Storek (Wencil Jr’s. son) for the various activities of the company.

Why leather?

Why not! Leather is natural, strong, durable, versatile and aesthetically spectacular. Leather was an important part of the economy at the turn of the century. Leather is a critical element of saddlery and obviously horses were such a big part of life in those days. While saddlery was never a huge part of Western Manufacturing, it is what gave Wencil Sr. his base on which to build his company.

What work did Western Storex originally specialize in? How has it changed over the past hundred + years?

While saddlery was a mainstay of most leather businesses at the turn of the century, Western Mfg. incorporated canvas goods, case goods, etc. as major parts of its line. We have manufactured a very wide line of leather and canvas products through the years. From canvas leggings and leather puttees for WWI military personnel to holsters, leather bags for mail delivery to sporting and recreational products.While we have been suppliers of a wide variety of leather products to the government during all military conflicts dating back to the First World War, we no longer do government contract work.

How has Western Storex served the Bay Area? Where was the original location and why did it move?

Western has been located in the San Francisco area since 1909. It’s first location was on New Montgomery St. (now the financial district). Outgrowing that location and with the evolution of San Francisco, Wencil Storek Sr. found a property on 9^th street that originally had a stable on it and later a structure that perished in the 1906 earthquake. In the early 20’s he had a state of the art brick and steel frame building constructed to house his growing company.

While the new building would only be about 40 percent occupied by the Western, the balance of the building was rented out to a variety of tenants over the years including what is believed to be one of the first locations for Wilson Sporting Goods.

Western and Storex craft has supplied products to virtually all Bay Area municipalities as well as schools, churches, organizations, etc. The management of Western has always been very civic minded. Wencil Sr. having been born in Europe was a driving force in San Francisco’s SOKOL hall which was a large part of the Czech community in the area. He was also responsible for attracting a skilled staff of “old world” craftsman. Wencil Jr. was very active in the Lions Club, Sokol, church and YMCA. Craig Storek, Wencil Jr’s son has been a supporter and participant in several youth programs.

How did you start out at Western Storex? Did you grow up in the Bay Area? How have you seen the industry change? 

I was born in San Francisco and attended school until the age of 10 when my parents moved to the peninsula. I would come to work with my Dad on Saturdays when the shop was in half mode and would also spend a fair amount of time during the Summers. The Factory foreman, my uncle Fred would find odd jobs in the shop for me to do. In it’s hay day, the Western employed about 40 craftsman in the shop and I always looked forward to my visits. It would hum like a well-tuned machine. The landscape of Leather manufacturers in San Francisco has changed dramatically. It is just a shadow of what it once was. My Grandfather was instrumental in forming the first organization for the benefit of his workers (union).

What originally drew you to leather work?

Having the trade in my blood did not hurt and I have always had a strong attraction to a well-made product out of quality leather designed to serve a genuine purpose. Plus there is nothing like the feel and smell of quality leather.

If I had a dollar for every person that walked into my shop and said, “I love the smell”, I would be a rich man.

What do you foresee in the future for leather work? 

Leather products are largely handmade so the industry has not changed a ton over the years. Yes there are all types of machines used in the production and some technical advances have been seen but some of the best machines are the old ones. There have been advance in the types of cutting machines used these day but they basically do the same as the old machines. 

What is your favorite part about leather work?

Handling the leather! Pulling the hide out and using the patterns or dies to create something of quality. PVC has nothing on leather. 

What is your most popular type of leather?

There are several types of leather and they all have their place. With rare exception is has to be top grain leather but different applications call for different types. There are so many different types of leather (cow, goat, lamb, pig, etc.) and the tanneries can impart a wide variety of characteristics depending on how the leather is tanned and finished. 

What advice would you give to manufacturers wanting to do leather work? Or to last in the leather world?

 Go for it. Leather is a wonderful material and if well cared for can last a lifetime. There is nothing more rewarding than to have a case or product you made come back in for a minor repair…well that is a 40-year-old product! My feeling is design the product well. Don’t skimp on materials or hardware and keep it simple.

What advice would you give designers wanting to do leather pieces?

Again, simplicity is valuable. Work up as many prototypes as is needed to get just the right fit and finish, then produce. Designers need to know what construction is called for and why. Use appropriate leathers and skilled craftsmanship and you will be a part of a product that can last for years. They say that older well used leather items have character and I would agree if the item has been taken care of.

Thanks Craig for such an in-depth look at a San Francisco institution! Visit Western Storex for your own leather supplies or craftwork here.

Behind-the-scenes with Diana of DDCC -- activewear equally suitable for running as it is for eating ice cream

I first met Diana at party near Dolores Park. We instantly bonded over It's-Its, trending colors, crazy sew shop experiences, magical fabric finds and the reality of starting your own business. She shared her secret of keeping it all together (3pm runs!) and we’ve kept in touch. She just launched her kickstarter campaign today to fund her Spring 2014 line. It’s incredibly inspiring (and rare) to know for a fact that this designer/business owner knows what she’s doing!

And of course, her line rocks. It’s slimming and fun, technically equipped to handle any kind of physical stress (just look at those beautiful seams) and you can even customize your fabric selection. I can’t wait to workout (or eat out) in DDCC’s upcoming line. Back her project on Kickstarter here.

Here’s our interview with Diana:

What first attracted you to fashion? You talk about your first hoodies having an unintentional use -- what did you originally design them for? How have you used feedback to influence your designs?

I started sewing at the age of 13 when I took a stuffed animal making class in middle school. My grandmother had always sewn clothes for my mom, and my mom for me, so they fostered a new found eagerness I had for creating garments. When I came out with the first line of hoodies they were designed to be worn every day with skirts and jeans. Soon I found that a lot of women were using them for working and and loungewear. This mainly influenced the garments I designed to go with the hoodies. Originally I thought I would be making jeans, and now I'm making yoga pants instead.

Where did you learn to sew? pattern making? business?

I refined my sewing skills and was introduced to pattern making at Cañada College. I fell in love with pattern making and transferred to the Apparel Arts Program, where I ended up taking an Apparel Production Seminar. It was there that I learned you could produce clothing in San Francisco, which I thought was so cool. I started the business, enrolled in the Business Planning Course through the Renaissance Entrepreneurship center, and have been learning how to run it ever since. In February of 2013 I was accepted into the Fashion Incubator at Macy's Union Square, and have been under their incredible support and guidance ever since.

Where are you from? Where did you grown up? Who are your biggest influencers?

I'm originally from the Chicago area, and half of my family still resides there. I grew up in the country with a forest in my backyard, where I played every day. I've had many over the years, but right now I'd have to say my main influencers are the mentors in the FiSF, and a core group of friends who are also my customers. You can really tell someone wants you to succeed when they are willing to give you honest feedback on your designs.

Why do you work out? Where is your favorite place to workout?

I've always had a temper, and used to stay angry for days when someone pissed me off. Now that I've been running I hardly ever get angry, and I can work out the day’s frustrations. I also I sleep better, feel more comfortable in my clothes, and can eat way more. It's awesome. What I need to focus on now is learning how to slow down, do more yoga, and meditate. My favorite running spot is the hills in Glen Park, and my favorite yoga class is Ana-Mari Hamada's all levels Iyengar class at the Yoga Loft.

When did you decide you wanted to have a whole line of activewear?

During my time at the FiSF. When I started I had just finished the product development for a yoga pant. It was such a hit that I decided to design a complete collection in technical fabrics, for running and sweaty activities.

How has your experience at FiSF (Fashion Incubator San Francisco) helped you?

My experience at the FiSF has been invaluable. The first thing they did was tell me to put the breaks on the business side of things and to focus on designing. Having the mental and physical space to design my product pushed my creativity to its limits, raising my line to an entirely new level. Now my collection is well-merchandised and impeccably engineered, and will be the basis for future collections. The FiSF has also taught me how to market and sell the line, and has provided a ton of PR opportunities. (note: FiSF is now accepting applications for 2014 residents--apply here). 

What inspires you?

I'm a pattern geek. I like to design clothing that is flattering, which is why you see all of the angled lines, which are lengthening/slimming. I also wanted to design something that was more sophisticated and San Francisco. The majority of activewear is neon and splattered with logos, and I find it unappealing and cheesy. I'm really proud of how sleek this new collection is, and how well it fits!

How do you keep it all together?

I run, and I do yoga. I also have a huge support group of friends and family. But when I'm frustrated or freaking out about DDCC, I go for a run and it all works itself out, and I come back clear headed and revitalized.

Where will you be selling your line post-kickstarter?

Online at ddccsf.com, and at various retailers. Both SecessionSF and Paragraph Boutique have placed orders on some of the tencel pieces, which I can't wait to show in the spring.

How are you producing your line? How will you ensure quality product? How will you make sure it's produced within your projected timeline?

I'm producing my designs at a factory in San Francisco. It's the same factory that did all of my sample making, so we already worked out all of the quality issues. The factory has it's own QC station, and I will stop by constantly throughout production. I 'm giving myself ample time on the production calendar to ensure I meet my deadline.

What advice would you give to aspiring designers?

Get your business plan together before you decide to launch your own line. Find at least 3 industry specialists who have done what you plan to do, and have them go over your business plan. Pay them if you have to! The advice you get will save you a ton of money in the long run.

What advice would you give to aspiring workouters?

I think a key step in starting a routine is to work out at least one weekend day. During the week it's too easy to say we don't have time, so remove that excuse by fitting it in on a Saturday or Sunday. Make plans to do this with a friend so you can't flake. Once you've got this down you can start adding days, and tagging along with your more active friends who will inspire you to push yourself harder. The important part is it has to fit in with your life .

Back Diana and DDCC on Kickstarter here. 

Behind the scenes: Meet Lili and Sandie, sewing your garments right here in San Francisco

The first day I went to a sewing factory I had no idea what to expect. I was nervous and felt totally unprepared to explain the design I was supposed to explain. It didn’t help that I was most likely carrying a hastily scribbled sketch and various reference garments with no final sample and a tight deadline.

Luckily, the first shop I ever worked with was managed by Lili and Sandie. They taught me from day one everything I needed to know about manufacturing a sewn garment, no matter how crazy or ridiculous. Anytime I brought a garment in, I would hang out and ask them how they made it so that I would know for next time. I would find out how to get a garment to work better for both the person that would eventually wear it and the sewing construction. That’s how I learned how to design and work with the sewing factories that make garments.

Meet Lili. Lili was born in Indonesia. She learned to sew at a design school and worked in a ‘super size’ garment factory that exported garments to the US.

In the mid-90s she moved to the US. Her sister was already in the Bay Area and within three weeks she found another job in a local sewing factory.

It was in this factory that she met Sandy, who had come to the US from Hong Kong around the same time. After over five years, their boss recommended that Lili and Sandie open their own shop. He even offered to help them out with equipment. They opened shop in SOMA, which is where I first met them.

They got their first order, a big one, and it just so happened that another factory was closing down and many garment sewers needed a new factory. Lili and Sandie welcomed them with open arms and were able to fill their order. Many of those original sewers are still with the shop, all these years later.

Lili really loves what she does. She loves to go to work and connect with people, to take care of people. Every piece she works on, she treats it just like her own and does so out of love. Many of her customers have been with her since her first day. She’s seen many companies start very small and has watched them grow.

All of Lili and Sandie’s work and employees come from referrals. Lili speaks English, Mandarin, Cantonese, and Indonesian.

Advice for manufacturers:

“The most important thing is to keep your promise. If you say you’ll finish in two weeks, you have to finish on time. You have to provide high quality and good communication. You eliminate mistakes with good communication.”

Advice for designers:

“Is the design workable? Does the market accept your product? Can you get it produced? You have to design something that is possible to do.”

We interviewed Lili and Sandie in their shop in SOMA. Thanks Lili and Sandie for letting us share your story!

behind the scenes: Meet Gary, cutting your fabric since before I was born.

Have you ever wondered how garments are actually made? Well, one of the first steps is that the pattern pieces have to be cut out of the fabric. When making a sample, this can be done piece by piece, but if you are making more than one garment with the same pattern pieces, you have to do it differently or you will go nuts.

The way to do this is to put all the pattern pieces for all the different sizes and pieces of a particular garment on one long piece of paper, this is called a 'marker'. Markers are like little puzzles, as you have to make sure you have the correct pieces, going the correct direction, for the correct number of sizes, colors and units ordered. (we'll talk to a marker maker in a future post!) A marker maker makes this magic marker and then you take it to the fabric cutter and they lay out all the fabric in stacks and put the marker on top and then cut out many pieces at a time. This can be done with a blade manually or electrically.

Sew shops often have a fabric cutting service in house, meaning all you have to do is drop off the marker and the fabric and they will cut it all out then push it through to sewing. But, due to many factors, especially the expense of having fabric cutters on staff, many sew shops do not have their own service in house and you have to find your own.

Meet Gary. Gary owns and operates a cutting service in San Francisco. He's been doing it for decades, and here's his story:

Gary was born in Chinatown in 1937. He went to Sacred Heart High School and then did one semester at SF State, but wasn't a fan and instead took night school at USF and studied accounting. He started out working delivery in a department store and then got into jewelry and engraving at a trophy store. He quickly learned how to engrave and five years or so later decided his to start his own business. What was it? A trophy store, naturally.

The first day his new trophy store was open, his wife went into labor. When his second child was born, it snowed in San Francisco. Gary says you could see the snow from the tops of the trees in Golden Gate Park. Crazy. Gary has three children, though the third one's birth wasn't as eventful as the first two.

Gary's sister-in-law used to have a sewing factory. One day Gary walked into the shop and asked the fabric cutter if he would show him how he cut the fabric. The fabric cutter said why, of course. It wasn't until several years later that Gary went back and actually learned how to spread and cut fabric from that friendly fabric cutter.

Gary went on to work for many different companies and was then asked to assist in a cutting room with 30 fabric cutters. I can only imagine how many long tables with lots of fabric cutters working out the shapes of hundreds and hundreds of yards of fabric were in that space, this was when local manufacturing was much more common. After a while, the sewing factory decided they'd rather just contract work to a fabric cutter (most likely to save money) and so they offered to sell the equipment to Gary. He took the opportunity and has been in business ever since.

All his work and employees come from personal referrals, as they have from day one. When you support local manufacturing, you are supporting people like Gary.

Gary is third generation Chinese-American from China and he lives in the Richmond district. He speaks English, Cantonese, and claims he can understand Spanish ;). His grandparents were here during the 1906 earthquake. Now that is history.

Gary's advice for manufacturers:

"If they are going into the garment industry, I would talk them out of it. It's a dinosaur."

Gary's advice for designers:

"Come up with an idea and pursue it. If you have an idea, go for it, but it is very tough. Money is not the problem, it's who you know, how to do it, and who can help you."

We interviewed Gary in his shop on Mission and S. Van ness. Gary has no computer and no email and writes out everything by hand. Thanks Gary for letting us interview you!